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If you’ve been looking into DCC and perhaps you’ve even decided that it’s time to get a system. May be you’ve decided Digitrax it the way to go, but you're struggling with which set is the right set to buy, not just for now but what about in a year or two. You may find other similar descriptions and help guides but perhaps this one will have the right "twist" to help you.

I’ve helped customer determine the right system for current and future need and boiled it down to a few questions. There may be other factors but these should help guide you through the decision process. These questions are designed for the home, personal layout but as you will see it will guide you if you're interests are for a club as well.

First thing to understand is the major components required to operate. Remember the "required" part because there is lot’s more that you can add on but it not required to operate. What you must have is a:

• Command station (only one)
• Booster (one or more)
• Throttle (one or more)
• Power Supply (one per booster)
• Locomotive decoder, (one per engine) obviously you need at least one (many flavors of this)

All Digitrax Command stations are also boosters, that is to say, they can be used as either a command station/booster or just a booster. You only need additional boosters if you have a more engines running than a single command station/booster can power. You may also have multiple throttles if desired.

All Digitrax include the Command Station/Booster, and the Throttle. The Zephyr also includes the power supply. For the others the power supply is sold separately and all decoders are sold separately. Simply speaking once you’ve selected the starter set that fit’s your "preferences" that set will include everything you need except the decoders and unless it a Zephyr the power supply.

About Scale, I may focus on HO scale, but understand that these sets are not scale specific. Scale is an issue of the voltage applied to the track and the size of the decoder. Decoders are categorized by their most common use, but they are not restricted to that category, however the smaller the scale/size of the decoder the lower the current rating.

The Basic Questions
So let start with the question, then keep these in mind as you read through the Starter Sets descriptions:

1. Do you prefer a console throttle, a walk around tethered throttle, or a tetherless walk around throttle?  Tetherless being either:
   1. Infrared (IR) Control   or
   2. Full Duplex Radio Control
2. How many engines do you want to have sitting on the layout, addressed but not necessarily running other than lights?
1. More than 10?
2. More than 22?
3. How many engines do you plan on have running at one time – what ever number came to mind you may want to double it, that’s what happens once you’ve gone DCC. The is a current issue, so do the math, most new engines will draw say maybe .5 amps, older ones may draw up to 1 full amp. This is where the stall test comes in. Now here’s the math, if you’ve got engines that draw .5 amps and a power supply that can supply 2.5 amps you can run 5 engines. (2.5 / .5 = 5)
4. Do you require separate programming track outputs.
5. Do you require CV read program capability rather than just write.

Now lets take a brief review of the sets, and the major highlight that differ them:

Zephyr – The Zephyr is the latest entry level Digitrax starter set. Here are the major points:

• It has a fixed single console throttle (it stays put) controls one engine at a time.
• It includes a 2.5 amp power supply.
• It can address up to 10 locomotives and 10 throttles.
• It operates at N scale safe voltages, i.e. it puts out 12 VAC rather than 15VAC.
• It has programming both Write & Read capability
• It has a separate programming output.
• It has the unique capability of allowing up to two analog DC power packs to be used as "jump stations" or throttles, controlling two more engines.

It is probably the most full featured system for the price and the least expensive at that. It is compatible and upgradeable.

So why would you not just stop here and buy this one:

1. Do you want a walk around Throttle? If so, you may as well move on to the next up system, it’s cheaper in the long run.
2. Do you think you're going to have more than 10 decoded engines on the track at any given point in time. It can only address 10 Locomotives.
3. Do you want to run (have moving) more that 5 or 6 engines at any given point in time. This system is 2.5 amps so you can only operate engines up to that current level, if you have engines that draw .5 amps, you can only run 5 of them.
4. Do you want a tetherless throttle. This set not come in a Radio version (teatherless), although you can add this feature on, if this is what you want it’s cheaper to go right for a radio equipped set.
5. Are you running O or S scale. This set will work fine for N and HO scale, but really is not a good choice for larger scales.

If you answered No to all of these questions, then this is the system for you! If you answered Yes to any of these questions then you should read on and consider the differences.

Super Empire Builder Xtra – This is the medium level system and will fit the needs of most all home layouts. The major points are:

• This system comes with an Infrared ready DT402 walk around tethered throttle. (requires a UR90 Infrared receiver to operate as an IR tetherless throttle) This throttle can control two engines simultaneously.
• It has Write only programming, no read capability, but I find that this is not typically necessary and if you’re using a computer programmer it is irrelevant.
• Does not have a separate programming output, but this too is not a big deal since most programming can be done on the main line and/or you can build a switched programming track section
• This set will address up to 22 locomotives.
• This set is rated at 5 amps.
• This system can also be purchased in a Radio Equipped version
• This will handle N, HO, and O/S scales voltages via a switch.

This is what I typically position for a home layout for a more advanced user. It is compatible and upgradeable.

The main key differentiators are the DT402 walk around throttle, that can handle two loco’s at the same time, and can be moved around and carried with you. Also the fact that it is a 5 amp system allowing you to run more engines at a time.

So why would you not chose this one and go for the next one:

1. Do you feel you must have read capability or a separate programming output?
2. Do you think you’ll be having more than 22 engines on the track or operating at the same time?
3. Do you require switch routing?
4. Do you require a higher amperage system?

If you answered Yes to any of these questions you may want to take a look at the Super Chief set.

Super Chief Xtra - I would consider the Super Chief more of a Club system but if you're interested in these specific features you may want to look at this system. The major points are:

• Still comes with the same DT402 throttle as the Super empire builder
• Has programming read & write capability.
• Has a separate programming track output.
• Can handle switch routing routines.
• Can address up to 120 locomotives
• This set is rated at 5 amps
• This system can also be purchased in an 8 amp version
• This system can also be purchased in both a 5 amp Radio Equipped version or 8 amp
• This will handle N, HO, and O/S scales voltages via a switch.

This is the Cadillac, doesn’t get better you can just add on, throttles, panels, boosters, etc.

Power Supplies

The reason the Super Empire and Super Chief do not come with power supplies is that many model railroaders have already invested in adequate power supplies. (Also so that they can be used internationally) Any power supply that outputs between 15 and 22 volts AC or DC should work fine, preferably with an 5 amp rating, or 8 amp for the 8 amp sets. The Digitrax PS515 5amp 110VAC power supply is a good choice if you do not already have an adequate power supply or want a dedicated supply. The Digitrax PS2012 is a nice 20amp power supply that will handle all your power needs even for 8 amp systems or multi-booster layouts.

For larger layouts you may want to separate power districts to control short circuits or reverse loops, the PM42 will add on for this. To add more current to run more engines you may need to add boosters and power supplies.

I hope these explanations help more than confuse. There are a lot more features for each system, but for the most part these other features are the same across all three systems. So if you’ve now chosen your starter set, now lets look at decoders. You must have a decoder in each engine you wish to operate on your DCC layout. True you can run one non-decoded engine, but I consider this for test and visitor purposes only. Simply speaking, why else would you buy a DCC system and the run only one engine in analog (DC) mode.

There are a few ways to break down the decoder decision. I suspect that over time you explore them all. Let me categorize the decoders for you so you will understand the differences, but for some specific decoder recommendations for engine manufacture types you may want to study the table provided by Digitrax at this URL: http://www.digitrax.com/decsel.htm

The top level two category separations are Sound vs. Non-Sound In general a decoder may provide up to 4 general tasks, but not necessarily all 4 at the same time depending on the decoder. These tasks are:

• Motor control
• Light functions
• Sound
• Transponding

Digitrax does also now have sound decoders for both HO and N scale engines.  Many are steam or diesel programmable.  Many are designed to fit in particular engines and come with the speakers as part of the kit.

If your looking for other sound features or options you may want to look at SoundTraxx products as this is their specialty.  
SoundTraxx Info Page.

For this discussion you should know that in the Sound category there is three main categories, there are actually more but at the highest level there are the following two:

There are a few categories here too:

1. Economy – Fewer features and functions, cheaper price
2. Advances wire in – Full featured with a wire in harness
3. Advanced board replacement – Full featured designed to replace engine constant lighting board

Model Number Breakdown:

Here an example model number, DH163A0 and what it means:  Note the DH165 decoders will also accept the Digitrax SoundBug which can be added on to enhance the decoder with sound capability.

Here’s what the digits mean:

• The first Character "D" is simply for Decoder. .
• The second character is for the scale the decoder is best categorized as, "Z", "N", "H" for HO, "G" for large scale O/G scales, and "S" for stationary.
• The next digit, "1" is the minimum amperage rating. In this example this decoder is a 1 to 1.5 Amp Decoder
• The next digit, "6" is for the number of light functions or outputs the decoder provides
• The next digit, "3" is the series or generation of decoder The latest and current series is 3
• The last one or two characters, in this case "A0" indicates the wire in harness, or engine manufacture the board is designed for
• D – Digitrax flat 9 pin plug with generic long wire harness
• P – 8 pin NMRA plug, long
• PS – 8 pin NMRA plug, short
• AT – Athearn standard engine pre-wired
• A0 – Atlas or Athearn Genesis Diesel Board replacement
• K0 – Kato board replacement
•  I     - InterMountain
• M – MicroTrain
• AR – AristoCraft
• S – Screw Terminal

One word of recommendation, if you’re just starting and going to purchase your first set and decoder buy the more advanced decoder initially. I used to have folks buy an economy decoder to start and this seems to be the natural thing to do. However now I recommend that you purchase an advanced model right off the bat. The reason is that you may not know and understand the differences/advantages of the advanced decoder until you actually have experienced it. It’s unfortunate when I have a customer find this out after investing in a lot of economy decoders and then find they want the advanced features and have to purchase all new decoders. Ideally buy one of each, and economy and an advanced . Once you’ve played with them both you’ll understand where and when you want to use each type.

Now for even more decoder information, refer to these links:

Digitrax Decoder Selection Chart

Digitrax FAQ's

Manuals and instructions

Digitrax Tech Support

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